Leg-of-Mutton Sleeves

augusta · Post by **augusta** » Mon Jul 04, 2005 5:18 pm

I know this was discussed in another thread, but I'm having company soon and it's quicker to just post as a new topic.

In "Everyday Life in the 1800's" by Marc McCutcheon, Writer's Digest Books, Cincinnati, OH 1993, in the chapter "Clothing and Fashion" there is this entry:

Leg-of-mutton sleeves: Sleeves puffed out at the shoulders; also known as gigot sleeves, popular on women's dresses from the 1820's on.

I'm surprised they came out that early. As someone posted, Lizzie was a fashionable woman. I'm going to vote that they were still popular when Lizzie wore them. I don't think she would wear something that was out of style.

Edisto · Post by **Edisto** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 2:20 pm

Well, "from the 1820s on" could even cover today, couldn't it? I don't see much of anybody wearing leg o' mutton sleeves these days though. I suspect they went in and out of style several times. Lizzie's dresses in her earlier pictures seem to have sleeves without fullness at the top, but that "chair" picture shows her with fullblown mutton legs. I recall that Emma said Lizzie's Bedford cord dress had quite full sleeves, but "not so full as we're wearing them today." (Not an exact quote, just the gist.) I agree that Lizzie looks like someone who enjoyed fashion, and she did own quite a few dresses for someone supposedly on a tight budget.

augusta · Post by **augusta** » Tue Jul 12, 2005 7:51 am

I agree with you, Edisto. Lizzie seemed to be a fashion-conscious person. Good thinking, that the sleeves could have gone in and out of style.

Shelley · Post by **Shelley** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 6:59 am

You are quite right- they did go in and out of style. The 1880's had a whole different look than the 1890's, with the curaisse tight-fitted bodice and slim sleeve and the last hurrah of the rigid bustle which mercifully did not last too long. The softer bustle of the 1870's was not quite as extreme.

Generally speaking, when the skirt was plainer, the sleeves were complex, and when skirts were bustled and ridiculously draped and festooned, the bodice and sleeve was simpler. The leg o' mutton's second incarnation began growing about 1890 in some French magazines and by Lizzie Days was a pretty respectable size. The zenith was 1896 when the sleeves looked like the gals could be linebackers for the Green Bay Packers. The plainer, "morning glory" gored skirts accompanied these as seen on dresses and skirts. Skirts were comfortable for walking, being wide at the bottom and hats were smallish with a verticle embellishment like a feather or bow in the front. The "chip hat" was a craze which Lizzie wore to the trial. It did look like a potato chip actually and fit over the bun in the back bicely. Fascinating stuff- ladies' duds.

Kat · Post by **Kat** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:04 pm

You have expertise in so many areas- it is very helpful- thank you!

Shelley · Post by **Shelley** » Wed Aug 16, 2006 5:16 pm

Costume history is a great passion, having to do some theatrical wardrobing over the years. I am particularly lucky in being a student at the University of Rhode Island as they have one of the premier vintage clothing collections on the East Coast. The FRHS also has some beautiful things. Post Civil War to WWI is my specialty. Simplicity just came out with some great Lizziesque patterns in the Fall catalogue.